20’ Samson Model S

[windybob]

The 2 slots in the bottom guide have me wondering how the pullout is put together. I was wondering if there are flat bars that go up thru those slots. The older open geared mills are kind of like that. there is a swivel thingy that slides up and down on the bars. I guess I need to see if I have a parts list for one of these biggies. That would show a picture of what they used.

[Overkill]

Windy your right “again”

The parts I need are the male pullout swivel, female pullout swivel and pullout bail. Parts 47S,47SA, 46S, 46SA, 46SB.
Also in this picture I need the plunger swivel parts 16SE, 16SC

[windybob]

I'm only right because i"m lucky. I'm not really that smart. lol

[Overkill]

Here is what I understand about the Samson pullout swivel and system.

[JBarker]

hope this helps

[JBarker]

https://www.mdhca.org/cultural-center/p ... n-windmill

[windybob]

For those who are not "diehard originalists" Here is a way to convert many mills to an easy system that is reliable. It is the Dempster method.
Here are the parts, you just need to size it to your mill.

Neckpipe, 1 1/2 inch pipe. The pipe on the pullout tube is made from 3/4 inch black. The knob on the end is small enough to be put through the storm stay. If you have a 'cup' style cap on the end of the neckpipe, you will probably not use it, and leave it off. This Dempster neckpipe is about 36 inches long, and the pullout tube is 20 inches, a little over half the length of the neckpipe. The flat bar on the tube is 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch. when you weld a flat bar to the pullout pipe, you need to weld it very close in places. I tack these sized pullouts in 4 places on each side of the bar.The I grind the welds smooth, so there is a nice transition between the bar and the pipe. Otherwise, it will bind on the bushing in the neckpipe. The flat bar is bent out, so that it's not allowed to go up inside the neckpipe. Also, there is a space below the bend, so the swivel has room. Also, the bar usually goes up in the neckpipe almost all the way to the top when fully inserted. This is to keep the chain away from the pumprod.

pullout 5.jpeg

The reason the pullout tube is made from 3/4 inch pipe, is because the pumprod itself is made from 1/2 cold rolled. Therefore, the rod has room enough to pump up and down inside of it. Of course, yours may be a different measurement. The chain at the top of the tube is welded to the neckpipe side of the flat bar, not the pumprod side. Further protection of the chain from the sawing action of the pumprod. At the top of the neckpipe, the chain immediately comes out of the head, and around a pulley, going to the tail, or tail bracket. also, the 3/4 inch pullout pipe fits inside the neckpipe with enough room for the bushing guide at the bottom of the neckpipe.

pullout 4.jpeg

This bushing is welded into the neckpipe, to keep the pullout tube positioned properly. The flat bar rides in the groove. THE FLATBAR WITH THE CHAIN MUST BE LINED UP UNDER THE PULLEY ON THE HEAD. OTHERWISE, THE CHAIN WILL BE WRAPPED UP IN THE PUMPROD, AND BE SAWED APART. So, when you put your neckpipe in the head, it needs to be lined up, and hopefully not move over time. This would be a good time to consider what kind of pumprod you have. A Dempster pumprod is threaded on top, so it can be pushed up thru the pullout, and screwed in the crosshead. If you have a pumprod that has hardware on both ends, then possibly wont fit thu the pullout tube, then you might consider an alternate pumprod type so it will fit. Believe me, it's easier to do that, and have a reliable pullout method than an old outdated flimsy kind that you fight forever.

pullout 1.jpeg

Next post for the remainder.....

[windybob]

Okay, now the pullout tube swivel. It fits a little loose on the tube, for obvious reasons. When you make a tube, you might put some washers on the tube before you weld the round knob on the end. That way, you have some friction reducers. It will be greased anyway. The bar on the swivel goes between the tower legs to keep it from rotating. You can keep it from rotating other ways. On the other side from the bent bar, there are eyes for a pull wire, or cable.

pullout 3.jpeg

pullout 2.jpeg

Now, with this type of system, your pumprod needs to be long enough that when the pulltube is down, and the mill is furled, the bottom of the pullout tube is clear of the pumprod swivel. Best way to adjust this setup is to pull the tube all the way up with the chain, and open the tail all the way. then hook the chain to the tail bracket.
Also, if your pullout tube has a very long stroke to get the mill turned off, you might install the pulley in the tower to have the pull wire go over for more of a straight-shot up to the pullout swivel, that way it won't pull sideways on the tube. Helps to do this on a wide-spread tower also.

If I think of anything else, I will edit the post.

[Wayne]

IMG_20191013_092759708_BURST013.jpg

IMG_20191013_110039900.jpg

Here is a guide and swivel I have. The guide has a 3/4 inch hole. The swivel with rod is 76 inches long with 3/4 inch rod. Swivel is 13 inches with a 1 3/4 inch slot for connection board. The swivel even has what looks to be a plug where you would put grease. It is heavy duty. Part num is D 168 don't have a clue as to windmill used on. I don't know why I have them. Had the swivel mounted to my open gear 8 ft Samson but it was causing me problems with my pull out chain so I rmoved.

[Smax]

Thanks Bob very useful info