Vintage Windmill and Wind Generator Forum

Fast reply; thank you. Our present well is about 190 feet. It's an old well; our home is a 1920's farm house. We bought it from a 93 year old and his wife who my wife had known when in high school here many years ago. Came with an 1897 German church, but former owner took out floor and removed steeple. Rest is still there and we've spent a lot trying to begin restoration. Long story on that too.
Neighbor about 4 miles West put in new well....c380 feet deep.
I'll see about that adjusting bolt. Will try backing it off as far as it will go. If that spring became, "loose," it would be a lot easier to deal with, (and clean up).

That would explain the size of the mill. Our water here is relatively shallow, so 6 ft mills are common, and a few 8 footers here and there. Sounds like you have plenty to keep you busy.

A little more work today. You were right when you spotted that carriage bolt. Removing double nuts from those few threads left were enough to release final tension on the big tail bone spring. All came apart easily after that. One photo shows a little vertically mounted spring whose purpose still eludes me, unless it is some kind of shock absorber. ??

One note we discussed: how the two small gears are attached to their shaft. I looked today and I'm sure they are pinned. That gives me a little heartburn as I seem to recall fighting such a removal once in my past and it was difficult. To say nothing of reinstalling using, I guess, a new pin, (from where I don't know either).

Dennis i would say those pins are tappered and only come out one way. Bob would know better.

I would keep in mind that they could be. They are not hardened steel like roll pins or anything, they would drill easy like normal steel. If they don't drive out one way, drive them the other and see. If not, then drill them out. Easy to make replacements.

The smaller spring is a tail buffer. You are correct about being a sort of shock absorber. Glad things are working out for you!

One of the main things about driving pins, is to be sure you have a punch the correct size. Don't want one to small so it craters the center of the pin.

Also, being as you mentioned it, don't drive a punch all the way down. You can crack the gear. I've done that more than once.

Thanks again. I figured the pins were tapered - just forgot to mention it. I know I worry too much about hurting something. (My OCD personality) And if uncertain, I'll, "sleep on," the problem for a day or two. That alone is a big help to work through a puzzle. I suspect the taper pins are, "peened," over some from original assembly. That begs the question of possibly needing to grind off the mushroomed part down to the hole in the gear casting. I guess I'll find out because I'm sure the only way to get out the windmill's mainshaft and Timken bearings is to have those small gears free. I hope ultimately this continually expanding thread will help another novice like myself in the future.....especially with plentiful photos.....

I was going to mention that Dennis. Yes grind the pins flush with the gear cause they probably were peened over. If you do have to drill them center punch the small end of the pins and try to keep the drill bit centered through the pins. Good luck.!!