Windmill hand pump construction

[Ron Stauffer]

Bryon
You really dont say how far down to static water level? In theory at sea level, a pump cylinder will pull water from about 30' above static. I say in theory as you have to get the leathers wet to swell to work and fill the line between the cylinder and check valve to prime. A cylinder above water is hard to prime and will cease pumping with slight leather wear before a cylinder that in water. Your drop line below the cylinder to the check valve has to have no leaks and your check valve or foot valve needs to be spring loaded. You wont use the bottom check in the cylinder.

Your hand pump needs to be the onion bulb style or have a top packing. With such a short distance from the cylinder to the hand pump, water will want to come straight up versus going out the spout.

It is most convenient for the uncoupling switching between windmill and pump to attach the other source before disconnecting from the first as your sucker rod will drop to the bottom of the cylinder. On a 10" stroke cylinder. your windmill and handpump both need timed so that you an inch off the bottom on the cylinder at the bottom of the stroke.

Use a guide on your wood pump pole with everything in line, 16' of 2x2 will bow and break

Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO

[BryonB]

F&W disconnect

That's what I'm talking about Jerry!

[BryonB]

There are spring loaded pins to do what you are talking about to disconnect from the hand pump. I've seen them before. The picture I have of my Mama pumping water with the pump under our windmill. The pump rod from the windmill is disconnected and put to the side. I figure it was something simple and easy to do. Can't really tell from the picture.

Thank you Wayne! Share that picture if you can.

Thanks for the pictures and info Wayne!

[BryonB]

Bryon
You really dont say how far down to static water level? In theory at sea level, a pump cylinder will pull water from about 30' above static. I say in theory as you have to get the leathers wet to swell to work and fill the line between the cylinder and check valve to prime. A cylinder above water is hard to prime and will cease pumping with slight leather wear before a cylinder that in water. Your drop line below the cylinder to the check valve has to have no leaks and your check valve or foot valve needs to be spring loaded. You wont use the bottom check in the cylinder.

Your hand pump needs to be the onion bulb style or have a top packing. With such a short distance from the cylinder to the hand pump, water will want to come straight up versus going out the spout.

It is most convenient for the uncoupling switching between windmill and pump to attach the other source before disconnecting from the first as your sucker rod will drop to the bottom of the cylinder. On a 10" stroke cylinder. your windmill and handpump both need timed so that you an inch off the bottom on the cylinder at the bottom of the stroke.

Use a guide on your wood pump pole with everything in line, 16' of 2x2 will bow and break

Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO

Thanks for the advice Ron! We haven't put the well in the new location yet, but I believe the static water level in our other well is about 10 feet. I was hoping that I could attach a pump to the spout to prime it. I have a Baker 12HD with the spigot spout and a hose adapter. It also has the packing nut on top and has the wide body. The biggest problem with a domestic water well is getting the cylinder low enough and still have it centered in the casing with the other submersible well hardware in place. The poly suction pipe should be flexible enough to sneak it down beside the other hardware.

[PaulV]

My disconnect. I believe it's Aermotor.

[windybob]

Here's one. It's a WB20 Monitor.

disconnect 3.jpeg

disconnect 2.jpeg

disconnect 1.jpeg