Vintage Windmill and Wind Generator Forum

Will get measures when at the shop tomorrow
jerry

joe herman wrote: ↑Sat Jan 13, 2024 5:53 pm I recently acquired a Beatty Pumper at an on line auction. The above information will come in handy down the road when i will try
and get my mill up and running.
My mill had only one wheel arm that was attached to two wheel sections. That will be my pattern when making the other 5.
The hub has only two holes with useable threads. The other four have existing rusted metal from rusted out arms.
What would be the best method to use to clean up these holes? I have the proper size pipe die to clean up the threads but don't
want to do any damage beforehand.
Peter have you run into this situation in your Beatty rebuilds?
Thanks Joe

I also used a hacksaw blad and cut several spots. with a sharpened drift punch worried asection or two out and with all the prodding the remainder freed up. cleaned and chased and spokes feed in
jerry

A challenge wheel might work also when i got my challenge Snow there was a Aermoter wheel on it with Dandy arms.

Ron Stauffer
The Beatty gears I have are
large 9 5/8 with drives at 3inch and 4inch or 6and 8 inch stroke
small 3 1/4
Hope this helps Correct me if I am wrong Peter

jerry

Joe,
I have made some spokes like that, you definitely need heat to bend it and to flaten the end.

Ron,
There is a 3/4 in tapered thread on the end of the spoke. It can be a little tricky sometimes to get them set right so they aren't loose or you try and go another round and it gets too tight. The spokes are just regular S40 Pipe. The wheel isn't under tension like an aermotor and the outer band is set slightly ahead on the spokes, I don't know why they did that. The wheel usually goes on pretty easy, no vice grips or punch needed. The tail buffer springs works great as long as they don't get bent out of shape or the tail pin is worn too much, then the spring buffer can go under the case and the tail can hit the wheel. The pull in design works great, I like it Eh
Peter

So the backgearing should be the same as aermotor especially if the small gear has 14 teeth and the large gear 46. The stroke length I was looking for was for the pump rod. I would guess similar to aermotor's actual of 7.25? This is why I asked Peter for this as his was assembled.

A Southern Cross windmill has a similar wheel but they changed back gearing and pump rod stroke length.

I can imagine wheel arm timing would be difficult as a pipe thread is bigger than an aermotor spoke thread. Do you measure length when seated? It is a good day when aer spoke length variance is less than 1/8 after timing and seated.

So is the wheel held solid on a pull in even after years of wear? Brakewise

Ron

Ron , i had not seen an anvil with the front nose taper broken / cut off before ............
and nice welding table , bet its heavy

An oldtimer gave me that anvil many years ago. It's had a rough life, not from me though. I still use it a lot.
Peter

Ron,
The stroke on the pump rod is 8". Small gears have 14 teeth and the large gears have 46 teeth.

Yes, I measure the length when the spokes are seated, I can usually get them within an 1/8 also.

The only thing under pressure in the off position is the spring and brake shoe, and you can add washers under the spring to increase tension if the wheel slips too much. The rest of the furling is not under tension, so a little wear wouldn't matter and I haven't seen any that are worn too bad, if thats what you mean?
Peter

Well my bearings arrived for the Beatty. Any words of wisdom before I replace them? I will heat the case and freeze the cups.
jerry