Vintage Windmill and Wind Generator Forum

This is a mast pipe. This is what the head sits on on top of the tower.

mtblah wrote: ↑Sun May 24, 2020 12:47 pm thank you for the photo of the tail !
my Aermotor has the same small pie shape metal fill in the upper corner. I always wondered if that was factor original or home repair installed ?
Mike B
New Braunfels TX

You are most welcome, if you need any other pictures let me know.

I'm going to need to source the mast pipe and I assume the sub tower (think that's what its called). Whats the best place to look for you, your favorite parts supplier, ebay maybe?

Mine is the same. Mine came out in 1929. Something about how they could the metal I wonder.

There is a place on ebay that sells them. I was talking about my vane in the previous post

Took most of the mill apart this past weekend, all the main bearings are good and tight, looks they have been poured not long ago so that does match what the previous owner noted.

One of the journals spins on the gear, its tight but not thinking its suppose to do that, being Im not going to work it I'm not to concerned.

The shaft for the guide wheel and yoke is not great, sure it will last many more years but could stand to be replaced.

Where the Pitman Arm attaches to the guide shaft should there be a thin washer? The cotter key rides against the Pitman Arm, does not seem right to me.

The fans have some areas that could be touched up with some solder, what to you all recommend? I could braze it but thinking that may not look the best.

I'm confident what I have will roll again. I need to gather the parts to mount it, make some parts etc. I need to study up on this part of the project.

Thats it for for know,

DB

Here's my take on some questions. I have re-poured lots of 602 mills.

Took most of the mill apart this past weekend, all the main bearings are good and tight, looks they have been poured not long ago so that does match what the previous owner noted.Bearings may be snug, not too tight. That is a subjective statement. However you do want oil to flow thru the babbitt and shaft.
There ARE grooves in the 2 front babbitt bearings, on the top side. If the bearings were re-poured, they better have them, and proper way or you have a permanent leaker perching on the tower top.

One of the journals spins on the gear, its tight but not thinking its suppose to do that, being Im not going to work it I'm not to concerned. Not sure what you are talking about here. May or not be an issue. If there is a way for you to post a picture, please do so.Pictures can be posted if you know how.

The shaft for the guide wheel and yoke is not great, sure it will last many more years but could stand to be replaced. Common to wear this shaft. It is a standard size steel shaft. just add a couple holes on it the same as what you have.

Where the Pitman Arm attaches to the guide shaft should there be a thin washer? The cotter key rides against the Pitman Arm, does not seem right to me. That IS correct, the cotter pin rides in a groove on the pitman, depending on what kind you have. WAIT>> after taking a second look, yes you can put thin washers there. You have the early pitmans without the slot for the cotter pins.UNLESS someone put them on backwards.

The fans have some areas that could be touched up with some solder, what to you all recommend? I could braze it but thinking that may not look the best. No solder, it's too soft. Braze and paint a galvanized color.

I'm confident what I have will roll again. I need to gather the parts to mount it, make some parts etc. I need to study up on this part of the project.

Thanks Windybob for your detail post, its appreciated.

Here is a picture of the journal I was talking about that spins in the gear. When I look at the other gear that one is tight, looks like there is a little key cast in the gear to keep it from spinning.

These is a picture as a took it about before I cleaned it up, its the best shot I could come with.



A shot of the type of Pitman Arms I have, would this narrow the year down some? I have yet to find a date stamp any place, searched the hoop many times with no luck.


Those zinc bolts and nut will be replaced with Stainless!

Well it's not the earliest, because it does not have a drain plug in the center of the bottom, or the oil "flipper", it has the oil ring instead. However, It's not the latest, either, because it still has the single-stroke pitmans, and gear peg. Also, the pipe plugs in the case are not there, indicating an earlier 602. The hub has NO clamps for the V-arms at the hub intersection of the arm/hub juncture. They made a bunch of incarnations to the 602, finally winding up with the 702 in '33. That's why there are so many patent numbers on the later cases.

602 mills were made from 1916 to 1933. Near the top of the hoop on one side you might see a flattened spot. Take some fine emery cloth to the flat spot. If the date does not appear, check the end of the mainshaft at the hub, there may be a date there.

The crank gear pin should be stationary. It is a taper fit, that you peen the backside over, and the tab holds it. I have tacked those in before with a cast-rod. Keep it small, not much room between the gears and the pedastal in the case.

You took fairly good pics and this is what I see:

No side drain plug so it drains in the bottom center
No cup on the case bottom for the mast so is a flat bottom
Has the earliest of the three styles of pitman arms

SO it is the earliest 602 would have had the date stamp on end of the hub shaft AND would have had a Martian eyes hub plug originally. I think I can see the remnants of a number stamp on the shaft

BUT it has not gone untouched as it has a 702 pump rod yoke and a 702 tail bone and anything is possible

Yes, pins on main gears for pitman arms were fixed not floating

Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO